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MattBangsWood
Project

Clear Debris Around Valve — Gain Access to the Valve

Intermediate

Part of project

How to Install a Two-Handle Shower Valve · Step 2 of 7

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In this video

Carefully chip away any excess concrete or mortar around the valve body. This is necessary to create enough clearance to work and to fit a saw blade behind the stud. Use a screwdriver to gently pry and break away loose pieces, being careful not to damage the tile or the valve.

Goal: Create working space

  • Be gentle to avoid damaging the surrounding tile or the valve body itself.

Used in this video

  • Flathead Screwdriver (Tool Type: Screwdriver) — Chipping and prying away excess concrete and mortar.
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FAQs

What are the most critical skills and tools required for this project, especially for a beginner?

The most critical skill is copper pipe soldering, as the new valve needs to be securely joined. Essential tools include a pipe cutter (like the AUTOCUT 1/2 in. Copper Pipe Tubing Cutter), a soldering torch kit, flux, solder, and safety glasses (HDX Indoor Safety Glasses). Practice soldering on scrap pipe if you're new to it.

How can I ensure I don't cause water damage or other issues during installation?

Always shut off the main water supply to your house before starting any plumbing work. After soldering, pressurize the system and carefully inspect all new connections for leaks before closing up the wall. Use Kleenex Paper Towels to dab around joints and confirm they are completely dry.

What's a realistic timeframe and difficulty level I should expect for this shower valve replacement?

This project is rated intermediate due to the necessary soldering and gaining access to the plumbing within the wall. For an experienced DIYer, it might take 4-6 hours, but beginners should budget a full day (8+ hours) to account for learning, careful work, and potential troubleshooting.

Are there alternatives to soldering the new shower valve if I'm not comfortable with a torch?

Yes, you can use push-to-connect (e.g., SharkBite) or PEX crimp fittings as alternatives to soldering. These methods require different tools like a PEX crimper or just the specific fittings themselves. While often quicker, they can be more expensive than traditional copper soldering and may result in a bulkier installation.

Transcript
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Removing the plate you can see how tight of an area it is but this is what we have to deal with when a faucet is installed according to instructions which are wrong. I found a tile guy who poured concrete to make the walls for the tile and I had to clear out some of the excess concrete that was plastered that went behind where the black plate was that was covering the faucet when the tile work was done. Using a screwdriver I am able to wedge against there and pry out some of the loose ones but you don't want to hit any of the pipes that are behind there. So as you can see a nice flat head screwdriver you know not my flat head but the thing on the end of the screwdriver is great at trying to clear out all this excess concrete so you can get to the stud behind there. Of course it is a very tight fit so even by clearing a lot it's still pretty tight. So basically what you're going to do to actually be able to move the faucet back is have to take a saw and cut the stud on both sides by avoiding cutting the pipe.

Auto-generated transcript. May contain errors.